Colonial life in Recife and nearby Olinda is a step back in time along narrow, winding streets with meticulously restored homes, churches and lovely plazas. The exceptional landscape and architecture found in the Historic Center of the Town of Olinda are an eloquent reflection of the prosperity nourished by the sugar economy.
Founded in 1535 on hillsides overlooking the Atlantic Ocean on Brazil’s northeast coast, close to the isthmus of Recife where its port is situated, Olinda served from the last years of the 16th century onward as one of the most important centers of the sugarcane industry, which for almost two centuries was the mainstay of the Brazilian economy. Its historic center today is marked by a number of architecturally outstanding buildings set in lush gardens and convent precincts with the sandy shore and ocean below. Rebuilt by the Portuguese after being looted and burned by the Dutch, Olinda’s existing historic buildings date largely from the 18th century, although it incorporates some older monuments such as the 16th-century church of São João Batista dos Militares.
Olinda is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The harmonious balance between its buildings, gardens, convents, numerous small passos (chapels) and about twenty baroque churches all contribute to the particular charm of Olinda’s Historic Center. The town is dominated by the Catedral Alto da Sé, the former Jesuit church and college now the church of Nossa Senhora da Graça, the palácio Episcopal Miseric church, the convents of the Franciscans, Carmelites and Benedictines, and various public buildings ranging from the 17th to 19th centuries. The studied refinement of the decor of these architectural works contrasts with the charming simplicity of the houses, many of which are painted in vivid colors or faced with ceramic tiles.
This is a new port for us, We are doing a free ship’s tour, “ Recife and Olinda.” It starts at 8:15AM and is four hours long. We have room service for breakfast so we can be in the theater by 8AM. As has happened before, we are docked on time but the authorities are slow in clearing us. The first tour, an all day tour, gets off about 8:20AM then they let our group come up and get bus tickets which creates a free for all with everyone jockeying to be first to get tickets. Dick hates this part. They do call us quickly though and we head to an inter-terminal bus then through the terminal to the tour buses.
We drive along the coast to Olinda, a hillside town founded by the Portuguese in 1530. In the historic area, which has been deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the streets are so narrow and winding that we have to board mini-vans to reach the main square, Alto da Sé. After a visit to Sé Cathedral, we explore the square and enjoy views overlooking Olinda, the fishing harbor below and the islands that are Recife and the main harbor where the ship is docked. We have some time to explore and enjoy the panoramic views but, unfortunately, a heavy rain storm moves through which puts a damper on the exploring.
Leaving Olinda, we return to Recife where we stop at the Governor’s Palace for a walk around the nice square bordered by the Palace, the Hall of Justice and the Theater, all beautiful Baroque buildings. Then we walk a block to the Golden Chapel. Its intricate Baroque design, much of it covered in gold leaf, distinguishes the chapel as one of the most beautiful in all of Brazil. It is part of the Convent of Saint Anthony and dates back to 1588. There are several other chapels, one is an active church and another one is a small chapel decorated with beautiful Portuguese blue and white tiles. It is being restored.
300 Year Old Tree from Africa
Chapel being Restored
From there we head back to the ship by way of the gorgeous Boa Viagem beach. This is an area so typical in Brazil where the rich and the poor live on top of each other.....beautiful beach front condos and fishermen’s shacks built over the water side by side.
Back on the ship by 1PM, we grab some lunch and then head to the terminal and the 2:30PM shuttle bus to Casa de Cultura, an old, very grim,19th century prison that has been turned into a handicraft market. It is an interesting building and we spend about an hour shopping. The best purchase of the trip is made here, a hand woven throw, large enough for our bed in the rig, for $8US!
On the way back to the ship, we wind up helping an elderly man who got confused and took the shuttle bus instead of the bus for his tour bus back to the ship. In the confusion of helping him, he is very upset, with the bus transfers, Dick left his hat and our sack of goodies on the shuttle bus and he had to go back to the terminal while the destinations people called the bus operator to check the buses and get the hat and sack back to the terminal for Dick. Dick boards with the last of the staff as they roll in the gangway and we sail for Devil’s Island, French Guiana.
Remains of Two of the Old Dutch Fort Near the Harbor
We have been rained on, dried and then sweated down our clothes. It is time to get cleaned up and go for dinner. After several drinks and some good white wine with dinner we are much restored and realize how drained we are. Recife is a neat town and we have really enjoyed our day! However, it is time to get off our feet and comfortable which quickly turns into sleep! Surprisingly, the room is back down to 70 degrees when we get back from our morning tour and is still there where we go to bed. The $64,000 question is will it stay there!
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