Wednesday, February 28, 2018

Wednesday, Day 53 - Feb 28 - 8 to 6, Exmouth, Western Australia, Australia - Becomes a Sea Day Cruising the Indian Ocean

Exmouth, located in the northwest part of Western Australia is a former military base. Today its serene coastal waters make Exmouth a special destination because of its proximity to the Ningaloo Reef Cape Range National Park. The Ningaloo Coast, UNESCO World Heritage Site is located on Western Australia's remote coast along the East Indian Ocean. The coastal waters host a major, near shore reef system and a directly adjacent, limestone karst system and associated habitats and species along an arid coastline.

An estimated 300 to 500 whale sharks aggregate annually coinciding with mass coral spawning events. The marine portion of the park contains a high diversity of habitats that includes lagoon, reef, open ocean, the continental slope and the continental shelf. Intertidal systems such as rocky shores, sandy beaches, estuaries, and mangroves are also found.

The most dominant marine habitat is the Ningaloo reef, which sustains both tropical and temperate marine fauna and flora, including marine reptiles and mammals. The main terrestrial feature of the Ningaloo Coast is the extensive karst system and network of underground caves and water courses of the Cape Range.

Above ground, the Cape Range Peninsula belongs to an arid eco-region recognized for its high levels of species richness particularly for birds and reptiles. The underwater paradise with its vibrant, aquatic life is said to be even better than the Great Barrier Reef off the Eastern Australia Coast.

Well, it was to be a new port and an area we have wanted to visit for some time. We had booked two, free ship’s tours today. First: “Coral Fantasy by Glass Bottom Boat,” included a picturesque drive along the coast of the Cape Range National Park, then a trip aboard the Reef Viewer, a covered boat with large glass panels on the bottom offering viewing of the wonders below the surface. We were to cruise the Ningaloo Reef, a massive reef that encompasses approximately 2,000 square miles of ocean. It’s an incredibly bio-diverse environment that is teeming with marine life, including more than 500 species of fish, manta rays, whale sharks, graceful hawksbill turtles, curious dolphin and schooling fish of every imaginable size and color. The reef is made up of 250 species of coral, including staghorn, cabbage and plate coral and coral bommies, which are standalone columns or outcrops of coral. The other tour, “Exmouth Highlights,” included a visit to the Harold E. Holt Naval Communication Station. One of the station’s key pieces of equipment is Tower Zero. The world’s largest array of low-frequency antennae surrounds it, creating a radio relay station that passes low-frequency messages between Australian and U.S. ships and submarines in the Indian Ocean. The strategically important station was constructed in the 1960s and the town of Exmouth was created essentially to support the station’s military personnel. We were to see a rare one-man submarine that pre-dates both places, as it was used during World War II. Also a visit to Vlaming Head lighthouse, a structure built in 1912 on the northernmost tip of Cape Range with spectacular views over Ningaloo Reef was planned. Then on to Jurabi Turtle Center to see green, loggerhead and hawksbill turtles. Then finally a photo stop at beautiful Bundegi Beach and at Charles Knife Gorge, both very scenic spots.

Alas, it wasn’t meant to be. The best we see of Exmouth is a view of the coastline from the ship. At 7:20AM the Captain comes over the PA telling us he can’t find a safe anchorage in the large shallow Bay. We have to tender today and the wind is at 25 knots making the water very choppy with 4-6 foot waves, very unsafe to tender. So we are moving on to the next port.
It is a beautiful sunny day, just too much wind! What a disappointment, but having seen a lady loose her footing getting into the tender on HAL in similar seas and crushing her leg between the ship’s platform and the tender, we really have no problem with the decision.

Now, since we no longer have an early tour, we slowly regroup, check email and then go for a leisurely breakfast while the staff scrambles and puts together a regular sea day program.

Dick goes to his two morning lectures: Bishops “James Cook: A Man of Endeavor and Resolution” and Eltaher’s “Sailing Through World History - Cruising the Suez Canal”. He says Eltaher has some great pictures of the building the Canal, but is still hard to understand.

Carolyn goes to Quilling with Sarah. We have a whole new bunch of ladies so she gets us started on the day’s project, a girl flying away with a hand full of balloons. It is made up of parts we already know how to make, so we go to work while she teaches the first timers.

Carolyn goes to lunch for a repeat of yesterdays good meal while Dick steams over the new Quicken program ID sign-in requirements. It is making him update again, the second time since we left Hawaii which is a problem on the ship.

Much to Carolyn’s delight, the Compass Rose has added some sandwiches with chips to the menu of heavier lunch food. This was a suggestion she put on her last comment card. Hope it lasts. The chicken and dried cherry salad is very good.

This afternoon Carolyn goes to the other craft class with Bishop’s wife, Julie, and learns how to do the decoupage card making method. The Quicken program finally decides to download and Dick is able to do his business, but this kind of frustration just sends him over the edge and ruins his day.  A major downside of cruising for him.

Because of the port disappointment, they added a before dinner show by the production cast, “Good Bye to Australia”. It is a tribute of song and dance to showcase the music of Australia’s most renowned film director, Baz Luhrmann, featuring songs from Moulin Rouge and the Great Gatsby. Carolyn goes and then meets Dick at Sette Mari for a good Italian dinner.
In spite of the disappointing beginning and other minor irritations during the day, it has been a nice day. And for the first time in a while we are not being bounced around when we head for bed! 

Tuesday, February 27, 2018

Tuesday, Day 52 - Feb 27 - Cruising the Indian Ocean - Captains Welcome Party

We start the day with sun looking out to sea and sea fog looking toward land.  There is some motion but by noon things calm down and it is a beautiful day.
Another sea day so we are off on our usual routine. We have about decided we like the sea days much better than port days. Lets hear it for more seas days!

Dick is off to both lectures. First Bishop does a talk on “The Great Outback Explorers.” Then there is a new lecturer, Hassebn Eltaher, a Muslim from Egypt. He is a professor and has lived all over the world. His talk is “Islam in Indonesia and Charting the Influence of Judaism and Christianity on Islam.” Dick says it is interesting even though his accent made it hard to follow at first.

They have the Wine Tasting Event for the different wines that are served during the meals. We didn’t go to the first two. The ship has one on the first sea day of each segment. We have had a couple of wines we really like. Carolyn wants the names so we can ask for them on the ship and maybe find them when we get home. Nothing like starting the day a bit tipsy. 10:45AM is a little early to start with the alcohol!
Compass Rose has some interesting things on the menu today and since Carolyn wants to stay away from the buffets, she goes alone. Dick is staying way from lunch these days. She has a leek quiche on a bed of red tip lettuce and a chocolate moose  cake which are both divine!

Dick proofs the blog that Carolyn is trying to catch up on and plays his computer games all afternoon.

Terry Bishop’s wife came on board in Fremantle and is teaching a crafts class in the afternoon. Carolyn heads there and learns how to make a card using the stamping method.

It is the Captain’s Welcome Aboard Party tonight, but we have a special order meal tonight so order drinks and some snacks to the room. It is a pretty day and we want to enjoy the balcony and then go to dinner when the dining room opens.

For dinner tonight we have a special order, shrimp, lobster and vegetable tempura. It comes out beautiful to look at and divine tasting!!! We had our special salad, then the tart tantin, a wonderful little bite of caramelize apple on top of a cracker spread with goat cheese served hot, and the sorbet. Dick orders the Spanish white wine I tasted this morning. We then finish this fabulous meal off with a bowl of ice cream. Yummmmm!!! We have died and gone to heaven!

Monday, February 26, 2018

Monday, Day 51 - Feb 26 - 8am to 6pm, Geraldton, Western Australia, Australia

Geraldton, “where the surf’s always up,” is internationally renowned as a “surfing” destination .This is a new port for us and the drop off point for Kalbarri National Park. It is a very remote area with very few towns and those are many miles apart. The land is used for sheep and some grain growing.

In 2009, we really wanted to drive up to visit Kalbarri and points farther north known for diving and snorkeling, but just didn’t have the time. So, we are taking a fee ($159pp) ship’s tour to see the park. It was listed as a tender port, but there is a docking space when we arrive so no tenders; yea!

The Kalbarri National Park tour is a seven hour bus tour, not Dick’s favorite kind of touring, so it already has one strike against it! Onward and upward to meeting in the lounge at 8:00AM to pick up bus tickets after a fast breakfast from room service.


The tour bus is scheduled to leave at 8:30AM. We have a fairly nice bus for 50 and have 32 passengers so we are not crowded and a Driver/Guide. He lays out the plan for the day and says we will be back at the ship around 3:30PM. The fact that we do get back to the ship on time and it is overcast and only about 75 degrees instead of blazing sun and110 degrees are the only really good things about the tour.

According to the Australian Travel Guides, “Kalbarri National Park is a beauty and receives thousands of visitors annually, attracted by its striking coastal landscapes, gorges and formations carved by the Murchison River. The Park is a photographers dream!”
 
Well, we will let the pictures tell the tale.

Frist we see some sights in Geraldton. Then it is a  drive of about two hours, through the historic town of Northampton, to our first stop in the park at Hawk’s Head Gorge. The land going to the park is farm land for the most part and we only see about six people, including the ones in cars passing us, for the whole way...very desolate land!  Our first  stop is for a view over the Murchison River Gorge, a 200 meter return steep hike, where we are served juice, cake and 1,000's of flies!! The overlook is just so-so and would not rate the road, parking, trails, covered picnic areas and toilets infrastructure in the US. We have cake and juice here.
Around Geraldton
HMAS Sydney Memorial

Cathedral
Entering Northampton

Turn off the Main NW Highway to the National Park
Then we drive to the little tourist town of Kalbarri and stop for a “gourmet” picnic style lunch at a city park overlooking the mouth of Murchison River where it meets the Indian Ocean. The park is in the heart of the little town and several people go across the street to check out the shops. Others walk to the beach or out on the piers in the river.
The “gourmet” lunch consists of one small quiche in a mini-metal pie plate and a choice of three salads: apple cabbage slaw, baby tomatoes, cucumber mix and a tasteless pasta shell, corn, and green pea salad, rolls and water. Hardly gourmet fare though the setting is nice, the wind keeps the flies away and it is probably the best part of the tour. We spend an hour here.

After lunch, we continue to the Coastal Gorges Red Bluff vista point for a photo of the panoramic view of the ocean, beach and sea cliffs. To be honest after the Great Ocean Road (GOR) and Esperance this is nothing but another nice, not spectacular, coast line. 
Another stop for the Natural Bridge and Castle Cove shows us the endless cliffs stretching south from Natural Bridge lookout over the Indian Ocean. This is a 800 meter return hike. We also see the dramatic rock formations of the coastline, carved by the continual pounding of the ocean against the cliffs, in this southern edge of the park. It is a nice view, just not up to what the literature says.


On the way back to Geraldton we pass by the Pink Lakes, created by the largest Beta Carotene producer in the southern hemisphere. This is worth a photo stop but we don’t because it is on private property. Oh, well.
But, the worst part of the tour is the driver who talks for the whole six hours we are on the bus...he tells some interesting points, like the difference between a station in the out back areas and a farm. “A farm runs one or two sheep to the acre and is family owned. A station is one sheep to two or three acres and the land is owned by the state and worked by the manager.” We did go through a station up near the park. But for the most part he talks about who lives on this farm or that house or what his family does...too much useless information.
The driver kept saying he hoped he wasn’t wearing our ears out, but he just kept talking...ugh!
Shearing shed on the station miles from anything

Dick put his ear plugs in and read, Carolyn did the same and she slept though some of it. We weren’t the only ones ready to get off the bus. You know that when after almost two hours of driving the driver asks a bunch of seniors if they want a comfort stop or to head straight for the ship, another 45 minute drive away, and everyone wants to go straight to the ship!

All this fun for an extra $290! If it had been a free tour, it would have been OK. The discount was thanks to our Platinum status with Regent. Regent should be ashamed of this tour! The 10 hour trip on the GOR was a free tour and we bought our own lunch so that means we paid $290 dollars for a piece of cake, juice and the meager lunch. The destinations department manager got an ear full after the tour.

Back on the ship we get cleaned up and Carolyn works on the blog, we are behind again, Dick works on the pictures.

The block party is at 6PM. This is a much more talkative new bunch. There are eight suites with World Cruisers (WCs), the rest  are new and they were out in force, eager to meet everyone. The WCs on our deck are a friendly bunch and we partied well after the start of dinner.

We have a very nice dinner in Compass Rose tonight. Dick has a half dozen fresh oysters on the half shell and Carolyn has the wonderful crab salad on avocado and we both have our special salad, and the herb crusted rack of lamb. For dessert Dick goes for a lingonberry dessert and Carolyn has apple streusel, both very good.

Then it is off to bed. They have battened down the stuff on the patio so we must be going to have rough seas tonight. We don’t last long enough to know !