Friday, Day 27 - Feb 2 - 8am to 5pm, Lautoka, Viti Levu, Fiji

The Fiji archipelago consists of tiny coral atolls and mountainous forest-clad islands of volcanic origin, and is famed for its aquamarine waters and white sand beaches that are not really white. Lautoka, meaning “spear-hit” or “hit to win,” was named that as a result of an argument between two chiefs. It is sited in the western side of the largest island in Fiji. The city is surrounded with the blue Pacific Ocean on the western side and green gold sugar cane and pine trees on the other sides. We had planned to do an all day free ship’s tour today to one of the many tiny islands that make up Fiji but it leaves at 8:45AM and Carolyn is not up to the attempt.  She is feeling better, has a light room service breakfast and gets up after Dick returns from breakfast but snorkeling and heat are out.
 
Dick turns in the tickets in time for someone else to use them.  Here is what we missed: 
Savala Island Snorkeling at 9AM for 6 ½ hours. We were to board a nice sized boat and cruise across the translucent waters surrounded by magnificent scenery, mountain ranges and seaside villas to Savala, an uninhabited 1 1/2 acre island that is surrounded by white sandy beach and home to native birds. Upon arrival, we transfer to the island. Once on the island, we do some guided snorkeling and a glass bottom boat ride to view the colorful coral gardens. There is also ocean kayaking and paddle boards, but we were planning on a pass in favor of being lazy in the shade.

Instead, we step onto the dock after asking a Fijian representative on the ship for some guidance. Against our better judgment we arrange for a van, driver and guide for a 3-4 hour tour of the area between Lautoka and Nadi. The van AC works like a charm, thank goodness, and the guide and driver try very hard to put a good light on their country, but there is not a lot to see and the trip is certainly not worth the $150 we paid!  We tried to negotiate but that seemed to be a tourist board fee for the van tour. Oh, well! Tourists are here to be fleeced! And it is a little drop in a big bucket as far as the trip cost goes.

We drive through the country side past sugar cane fields and other cash crops, past schools, family compounds some churches and small villages. We are taken to a beachfront hotel to be further fleeced, sorry, entertained, where a beer and a coke cost $10US but do see some female and male story telling and tribal dancing including the fire dance we missed yesterday. The dancers can really move their hips, especially the women. One of the three women could use a pair of larger sized coconuts though.

Dick has the van stop at a liquor store (armed camp) to get a sample of a local rum for the ridiculous price of $19US for 375ML, 8/10 of a pint! It had better be good! It has won all kinds of awards and is 116% proof. The guide says not to mix it with anything but ICE!

The liquor store is small with very sparse merchandise, mostly beer.  The two men and a woman running the store are behind a floor to ceiling grill work cage that is quite substantial. (Note in the picture that there is even a ceiling on the cage where the customer stands!  Like in a Russian store in the 1980s, you cannot touch the merchandise until you have paid for it.  They will hold a bottle up to the grill but "lookie, no touchie!"  Cash only is passed through one small opening and counted three times and entered into a ledger.  The bottle is then passed across the room where it is put in a paper sack and that into a plastic bag and slid out to the customer through a somewhat larger opening.  No "Thank you for your business" or small talk is exchanged.

After seeing some WWII guns and visiting the place known as the first landing, where the first people came ashore 3,500 years ago and seeing the tribal culture that is still going strong, we return to the ship about 2PM.

As with most of the Pacific islands, their reputation for beauty far exceeds their reality, with the possible exception of Bora Bora whose Lagoon is breath taking. Fiji struck us as poor, comparatively clean and unlittered but without AC in this climate it is not on our list of places we will visit again. Nor are the ocean water and beaches the white sand and crystal clear water we have always loved about so many of the Caribbean Islands.

We order some ice-cream from room service and work on this blog. Carolyn is talking about dinner so maybe she has recovered.

Again, We are almost an hour late sailing but are out of the harbor and moving right along at 6:30PM when we head for dinner. The wait staff is glad to see Carolyn back in the dining room again and Carolyn is glad to be back and feeling better!

We eat lightly. Dick has the cream of garlic soup, lamb chops and a baked potato, Carolyn has a bowl of strawberries, the small steak and a baked potato. We both try the lemon meringue pie which is very good, tart with a nice crisp crust.

A much welcome two days at sea up next.